Growing Miniature Orange Trees

 

 

Growing Miniature Orange Trees At Home

Compost:-

For a soil based compost, use equal amounts of free draining loam, sharp sand & peat. Make sure the compost contains very little lime. You can use John Innes No.2 compost as the base and just add another 20% draining medium such as Perlite.

Watering:-

If you over water your miniature orange trees you will kill them off. Newly potted trees need more watering until they are established. If new growth wilts or leaves are dull, then water more often. Leaves dropping a few days after a good watering means that your tree was too dried out before it was watered.

Be consistent with your watering and don't let your tree dry out. You must make allowances for your trees' changing needs during the season.

Orange trees should never be allowed to become too dry or too wet. Always water your tree well, this may need to be done daily in a hot summer but only once a fortnight in winter.

In summer the foliage should be sprayed daily with soft rain water if available, but if it's not, then bottled water is probably better for your orange tree than tap water. Spraying will maintain healthy foliage and helps to ward off red spider mite and other pests.

Conservatory or Orangery, plants need a moist atmosphere that is relative to the temperature. Dry heat can cause leaf drop and dry out the branches of your tree.

Pebble trays, part filled with water, with pots standing on top and above water level will increase the humidity considerably. This will benefit your trees greatly.

Feeding:-

With newly re-potted trees, wait 6 weeks before starting to feed them. Once the plant starts to actively grow in spring - summer, regular feeding can begin. Use any good general purpose fertiliser that contains trace elements.

Nitrogen is the main requirement in spring and summer. A number of feeds that work well include specially made Citrus feeds like chempak No2 for Summer and No3 for Autumn. No 2 is a high nitrogen feed and has an NPK of 25:15:15 whereas No 3 is a more balanced feed of 20:20:20 both having 7 trace elements present.

I haven't noticed any difference between expensive specialist feeds and tomato plant food to be honest, and the tomato plant food is easier to find than anything else. This works for me so, you can try them and see for yourself which feeds give you the best results.

Hard water areas cause a few problems with lime so a few times in the summer months, use a product called Bio Multitonic that adds 8 vital trace elements to the soil. These include sequestered Iron, Manganese and Magnesium.

Nutrient deficiencies and excesses can often be detected simply by watching the leaf size, colour and shape of your tree. When you see changes in the leaf you need to know what you should do.